Once we receive your engine we will do a complete and full inspection to verify your core is in good condition. If we find any issues we will contact you with any updates or changes that may affect your build. We will then disassemble, clean, and begin to blueprint and rebuild your engine better than the factory specs, for a longer lasting more reliable engine. All engine cases are then completely cleaned and sandblasted then painted with Castblast aluminum sealing paint. Upon assembly we use only the very best assembly lube and case sealers. Once assembled all engines are spun up with -Break In- engine oil and then oil pressure tested. Once your engine has passed all our quality checks it is then drained and prepped for shipping. Return Shipping is on us.

Current Turn Around Times Are = 2-3 Business Days

Preparing your Engine for Shipping.

Once you have pulled your engine out of your machine its time to get it ready to ship to us.

1. Remove as much as you are comfortable with.  Remove all hoses, oil cooler, and oil filter. If you have a turbo engine remove the turbo and header.
2. We need you to ship the side cover that covers the stator assembly. We will need that to make sure it matches the rest of your engine when we soda blast and paint it. We understand not everyone has the abilities to pull the flywheel and stator assemblies. Not a problem. You can leave all that on. But if you pull it, pull the stator out of the side cover and ship us the cover.
3. We will provide you with all the gaskets and seals you need to re-assemble everything.
4. We ask you try to get as much oil out of the engine as you can.
5. Once that's all complete please double wrap your engine with at least 2 trash bags to help keep any left over oil in the bags as possible. No matter how much oil you get out there's always more. 
6. Locate a good heavy duty box or tote that allows enough room for protective packing materials around all 6 sides.
7. Package up your engine making sure it's safe and secure.
8. Apply the pre-paid shipping label provided from us to the top and drop it off at your local shipping location.

Warranty Information

We back all our rebuilt UTV engines and rebuilt UTV transmissions with a comprehensive 1 Year Warranty. 
Customers are responsible for the cost of shipment back to Oregon Precision Powersports. We will cover the return shipping cost back to you.

Avoid the following to insure your warranty is not void.

We will not warranty your engine if the following exist…

• Broken warranty seals. All Oregon Precision Powersports engines will be staked and sealed.
• Shipping Damage. If the engine is damaged during shipping to our facility from improper shipping methods.
• Any customer modification that has been proved to cause any damage to the engine.
• Customer’s installed part fails and/or causes damage to the engine
• Overheated engine. All engines will have a heat tag on the head. If the engine was overheated or tag removed.
• Abuse. Any obvious abuse proved to cause engine failure.
• Lack of lubrication (Always check your oil)
• Dusted engine (dust or dirt sucked through the intake)
• Water Intake / Water flooded engine
• Fire
• Lack of proper preventative maintenance (regular oil changes and running the correct lubrication)
• Improper installation
• Improper break-in procedure / Make sure to follow break-in procedures

Customer is responsible for return shipping. Once repaired, we will cover the cost of shipping back to you.

Engine Break-In Procedure

You must bleed the cooling system.  On the back of the head is a bleed screw. Back the screw out 4-5 turns then fill the radiator with coolant. You will hear air escaping the system, wait until you see coolant leaking out of the bleed screw. Tighten bleed screw.  Then continue to fill the radiator until full.   Fill the engine with oil. Make sure to use break-in oil that is high in zinc.  All your major brands make a version of engine break-in oil. Amsoil, Royal Purple, etc..  This will help to ensure your piston rings seat properly.  Start your engine leaving the radiator cap off and then back that bleed screw out a few turns to make sure you have a steady stream of coolant coming out. Tighten it back up. Top of the Radiator. Replace Cap. Bring up to operating temperature. Varying the throttle between 1000-4000 rpm. Don't just let it idle.  Once up to operating temperature shut off the engine.  Let the engine cool down completely.  New check all the fluids. Top off where necessary.  Open the bleed screw and make sure you have coolant coming out and no more air. Some systems with heaters will have to do this multiple times.  Start the machine up and drive it around gently varying throttle and bringing the machine up to temperature.  This will be considered your second heat cycle. Shut it down and let cool completely down. Repeat Steps 6-7.  You should now be good to go.   Always remember to keep and eye on your engine oil and coolant for the first 200 miles.  Some engine oil consumption is normal.  If you fell it is extreme or have any other question give us a call.

Run break-in engine oil for the first 20 hours of easy to moderate use. After you initial 20 hrs. of break-in switch over to your normal engine oil.  Full Synthentic Amsoil, Royal Purple, Lucas, Polaris, etc..

If at anytime during your break-in period your engine oil seems to break-down or become discolored you may need to go ahead and change your oil sooner than later.

And again, if you have any questions or concerns please give us a call.  541-717-4224